pastéis de nata
← Guides

Portugal: what to eat

12 dishes worth the trip, the wine, and 23 places to eat them.

pastéis de nata · Claude Truong-Ngoc CC BY-SA 3.0

Portuguese food is generous, unfussy and built on very good raw material: fish that was swimming that morning, pork from the Alentejo oak plains, olive oil poured with a heavy hand, and bread that is a meal by itself. It changes as you drive south, from the kale soups and roast meats of the Minho to the cataplanas of the Algarve, with a stop in the middle for suckling pig.

The best of it is still in the cheap places: a tasca with paper tablecloths, a bifana at a counter, sardines off a street grill in June. Portugal also has a restaurant scene that has grown fast, with 53 Michelin-starred kitchens in 2026. This guide covers both, and every place on it was checked by hand.

The dishes

francesinha in Porto

Francesinha

Porto

Bread layered with steak, ham and fresh sausage, covered in melted cheese and a hot, beer-and-tomato sauce, usually with a fried egg on top and fries on the side. Porto's own, born around the 1950s-60s as a local answer to the croque-monsieur. Every café defends its sauce.

francesinha in Porto · DgOlsen CC BY-SA 4.0

pastéis de nata

Pastel de nata

Everywhere, Belém above all

Custard in crisp, flaky pastry, blistered dark on top. It came from the monks of the Jerónimos Monastery, and the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém has baked it to the original recipe since 1837, where it is called pastel de Belém. Eat it warm, with cinnamon and icing sugar.

pastéis de nata · Claude Truong-Ngoc CC BY-SA 3.0

bacalhau à Brás

Bacalhau à Brás

Lisbon, and every home

Shredded salt cod with matchstick fries, onion and soft-set egg, finished with black olives and parsley. Bacalhau is the national obsession, said to have a recipe for every day of the year, and this is the one most people learn first.

bacalhau à Brás · Avicentegil CC BY-SA 4.0

caldo verde

Caldo verde

The Minho, and everywhere

Potato broth with very finely sliced kale, a thread of olive oil and a slice of chouriço. The soup of the north, of weddings, and of every June festival at midnight.

caldo verde · Pasquale Paolo Cardo CC BY 2.0

grilled sardines in Nazaré

Sardinhas assadas

The whole coast, in summer

Sardines grilled over charcoal, eaten on a slice of bread that soaks up the juices, with boiled potatoes and a salad of peppers. They are best from June to September, and June's Santos Populares festivals in Lisbon and Porto smell of them.

grilled sardines in Nazaré · Yusuke Kawasaki CC BY 2.0

leitão à Bairrada

Leitão à Bairrada

Mealhada and the Bairrada

Suckling pig rubbed with a peppery garlic paste and roasted whole in a wood oven until the skin shatters. On the old N1 road at Mealhada the restaurants stand one after another. Order it with crisps, orange slices and a bottle of Bairrada sparkling wine.

leitão à Bairrada · Adriao CC BY 3.0

polvo à lagareiro

Polvo à lagareiro

Everywhere

Octopus boiled until tender, then roasted with garlic, served with small potatoes punched open (batatas a murro) and drowned in olive oil. The name means "olive-press worker's style", which tells you how much oil to expect.

polvo à lagareiro · Exilexi CC BY 4.0

cataplana in the Algarve

Cataplana

The Algarve

Both the dish and the hinged copper pan it is cooked in, closed like a clam so everything steams in its own juices: shellfish, fish, sometimes pork and clams together. It arrives at the table shut and is opened in front of you.

cataplana in the Algarve · michael clarke stuff CC BY-SA 2.0

arroz de marisco in Lisbon

Arroz de marisco

The coast

Seafood rice, but soupy rather than dry: a tomato broth full of crab, prawns and clams, brought to the table in the pot and ladled out. Meant for sharing, and for mopping up with bread.

arroz de marisco in Lisbon · Kritzolina CC BY-SA 4.0

cozido à portuguesa

Cozido à portuguesa

Everywhere, in winter

A Sunday feast of boiled meats and enchidos (chouriço, farinheira, morcela) with cabbage, carrots, turnip and potatoes. In the Azores, at Furnas, it is buried in pots in volcanic ground and cooked by the earth's heat for hours.

cozido à portuguesa · Uxbona CC BY-SA 3.0

a bifana on a plate

Bifana

Everywhere, Vendas Novas claims it

Thin pork steak marinated in garlic and white wine, stuffed into a soft roll. Mustard is the only acceptable extra. The Alentejo town of Vendas Novas calls itself its capital; Porto serves it in a spicier sauce.

a bifana on a plate · Alberto González CC BY-SA 3.0

ovos moles

Ovos moles de Aveiro

Aveiro

Sweetened egg yolk in thin wafer shells shaped like shells and fish, a convent sweet from the lagoon town of Aveiro. EU-protected (PGI), and sold in painted wooden barrels as well as boxes.

ovos moles · escolaglobal CC BY 2.0

Also look for

  • Frango assado (frango no churrasco). Chicken split open and grilled over charcoal, brushed with piri-piri as it cooks, from a churrasqueira by the kilo. The village of Guia in the Algarve is famous for it; everyone else has a favourite on their street.
  • Feijoada à transmontana. The Portuguese bean stew: red beans with pork, chouriço and other enchidos, from Trás-os-Montes. Brazil's black-bean feijoada is its better-known cousin.
  • Prego. A steak sandwich with garlic, and the traditional way to end a seafood meal at a cervejaria.
  • Alheira de Mirandela. A smoked sausage of poultry and bread, invented, the story goes, by Jews hiding their faith from the Inquisition. PGI-protected. Fried, with an egg and fries.
  • Queijo Serra da Estrela. Soft raw sheep's-milk cheese from the mountains, DOP. At its best the top is cut off and the inside eaten with a spoon.
  • Carne de porco à alentejana. Pork and clams together, with fried potato cubes and coriander. Land and sea on one plate.
  • Açorda alentejana. Bread soup with garlic, coriander, olive oil and a poached egg. Poor food, and wonderful.
  • Tripas à moda do Porto. Tripe with white beans. It is why people from Porto are called tripeiros.
  • Bolo do caco. Madeira's flat sweet-potato bread, cooked on a stone slab and served warm with garlic butter.

What to drink

  • Port. Fortified wine from the Douro valley, aged in the lodges across the river from Porto in Vila Nova de Gaia. Tawny for after dinner, white port and tonic before it.
  • Vinho verde. Young, fresh wine from the Minho. Alvarinho from Monção and Melgaço is the serious end of it.
  • Douro and Alentejo reds. The Douro's from the same terraces as port, the Alentejo's rounder and sunnier. Both are very good value.
  • Madeira. Fortified wine from the island, heated and aged so long it keeps almost forever once opened.
  • Ginjinha. Sour cherry liqueur, drunk standing at tiny bars in Lisbon's Rossio, or in a chocolate cup in Óbidos.
  • Um fino or uma imperial. A small draught beer. Fino in Porto, imperial in Lisbon, and people will notice which one you say.

A week eating north to south

Porto to the Alentejo by car, one region a day, with where to eat at every stop. Add the Algarve at the end if you have more time.

North to south

7 days
  1. Day 1Porto. A pernil sandwich for lunch, a walk down to the river, a francesinha for dinner.Casa Guedes€Café Santiago€
  2. Day 2Gaia and the coast. Bifanas, then the port lodges across the bridge. Dinner on the rocks at Leça if you are splashing out.Conga€Casa de Chá da Boa Nova€€€
  3. Day 3The Douro. Drive up the valley to Régua, a quinta visit, and dinner among the vineyards.Schistó€€€
  4. Day 4Bairrada and Coimbra. Leitão for lunch at Mealhada, then Coimbra's old university and salt cod for dinner.Pedro dos Leitões€€Solar do Bacalhau€€
  5. Day 5Lisbon. Arrive, walk the Baixa and Alfama, and end the day with seafood and a prego.Cervejaria Ramiro€€
  6. Day 6Belém and Chiado. Pastéis warm from the oven by the monastery, then petiscos in Chiado. Get to the taberna early.Pastéis de Belém€Taberna da Rua das Flores€€
  7. Day 7Évora. An hour and a half east into the Alentejo, and a lunch where they decide what you eat.Taberna Típica Quarta-Feira€€

Where to eat in Portugal

23 places, from a sandwich counter to a clifftop two-star, by region. Stars and Bib Gourmands are from the current Michelin guide; every place was checked on 26 September 2026. Menus and hours change, so check before you go.

€ casual, under about €25€€ a proper meal, €25-60€€€ tasting menu

Porto and the north

  • Casa Guedes€
    Porto · Sandes de pernil

    Slow-roast pork shank sandwiches, carved to order and dripping with their own juices. Ask for it with queijo da Serra. Small old counter plus a bigger house on Praça dos Poveiros.

    Website ↗Google Maps ↗
  • Conga€
    Porto · Bifanas

    Bifanas in their spicy Porto sauce since 1958, on Rua do Bonjardim. A bifana and a fino for around five euros.

    Google Maps ↗
  • Café Santiago€
    Porto · Francesinha

    Open since 1959 on Rua de Passos Manuel, and the name most people in Porto give when asked where to eat a francesinha.

    Website ↗Google Maps ↗
  • Casa de Chá da Boa Nova€€€
    Leça da Palmeira · 2 Michelin stars

    Rui Paula's restaurant in Álvaro Siza's early teahouse, built into the rocks above the Atlantic. The building alone is worth the trip.

    Google Maps ↗
  • Schistó€€€
    Peso da Régua · 1 Michelin star, new in 2026

    Chefs Vítor Matos and Vítor Gomes in the Douro valley, among the port vineyards.

    Google Maps ↗
  • Camelo€€
    Viana do Castelo · Bib Gourmand 2026

    Generous Minho cooking with Michelin's value distinction, near the northern coast.

    Google Maps ↗

The centre

  • Pedro dos Leitões€€
    Mealhada · Leitão

    Roasting suckling pig on the Mealhada road since 1941, and big enough to seat hundreds on a Sunday. The classic place to eat leitão where it is made.

    Website ↗Google Maps ↗
  • Solar do Bacalhau€€
    Coimbra · Bib Gourmand 2026

    In the university city, with the value distinction, and built, as the name promises, around salt cod.

    Google Maps ↗
  • Dóri€€
    Costa Nova, Ílhavo · Bib Gourmand 2026

    By the striped wooden houses of Costa Nova, between the lagoon and the sea, a short drive from Aveiro and its ovos moles.

    Google Maps ↗

Lisbon

  • Cervejaria Ramiro€€
    Lisbon (Intendente) · Seafood

    The seafood hall on Avenida Almirante Reis since the 1950s: tiger prawns, clams in garlic, crab, and a prego to finish, the way Lisbon does it. Expect a queue.

    Website ↗Google Maps ↗
  • Taberna da Rua das Flores€€
    Lisbon (Chiado) · Tasca

    A small tasca with a short menu of Portuguese petiscos written up daily. No reservations and, as of 2026, cash only, so come early or be ready to wait.

    Google Maps ↗
  • Pastéis de Belém€
    Lisbon (Belém) · Since 1837

    The Antiga Confeitaria de Belém, next to the Jerónimos Monastery, baking to the monks' original recipe. The takeaway queue moves fast; the rooms inside are bigger than they look.

    Daily 08:00-23:00

    Website ↗Google Maps ↗
  • Canalha€€
    Lisbon (Junqueira) · Bib Gourmand 2026

    A lively tasca between Alcântara and Belém with Michelin's value distinction. Good after a Belém morning.

    Google Maps ↗
  • Belcanto€€€
    Lisbon (Chiado) · 2 Michelin stars

    José Avillez's flagship in Chiado, Portuguese flavours at their most refined.

    Website ↗Google Maps ↗

The Alentejo

  • Taberna Típica Quarta-Feira€€
    Évora · No menu

    There is no menu: you book, sit down, and they bring what they are cooking that day, usually a long parade of Alentejo dishes. Tiny, so book well ahead. Closed Sundays.

    Google Maps ↗
  • Herdade do Esporão€€€
    Reguengos de Monsaraz · 1 Michelin star

    The restaurant of one of the Alentejo's great wine estates, on the estate, with the wines at the source.

    Website ↗Google Maps ↗
  • Tasca do Celso€€
    Vila Nova de Milfontes · Coast and country

    Alentejo cooking and the catch of the day on the Vicentine coast, in a rustic room with a fireplace. Closed Mondays.

    Website ↗Google Maps ↗

The Algarve

  • Casa do Polvo Tasquinha€€
    Santa Luzia, Tavira · Octopus

    In the fishing village that calls itself Portugal's octopus capital, a restaurant that cooks little else. Try polvo à Tasquinha, octopus done the way the Alentejo does pork. Closed Monday evenings and Tuesdays.

    Google Maps ↗
  • Ramires€
    Guia, Albufeira · Frango piri-piri

    Grilling chicken over charcoal in Guia since 1964, and the reason the village is known for frango. Huge, busy and fast.

    Website ↗Google Maps ↗
  • A Ver Tavira€€€
    Tavira · 1 Michelin star

    Up by the castle, with the town's rooftops spread below the terrace.

    Google Maps ↗
  • Vila Joya€€€
    Albufeira (Praia da Galé) · 2 Michelin stars

    Dieter Koschina's clifftop restaurant, one of the longest-standing names in Algarve fine dining.

    Website ↗Google Maps ↗

Madeira and the Azores

  • Casal da Penha€€
    Funchal, Madeira · Bib Gourmand 2026

    Madeiran cooking in Funchal with Michelin's value distinction.

    Google Maps ↗
  • Tony's€€
    Furnas, São Miguel · Cozido das Furnas

    In the middle of Furnas village, serving the cozido that has spent the morning buried in the volcanic ground by the lake. Book ahead for lunch.

    Google Maps ↗

Every table on one map

Leaflet © OpenStreetMap contributors

Markets and food experiences

  • Mercado do Bolhão, Porto. Porto's 19th-century market, reopened in 2022 after a long restoration: fish, cured meats, flowers and small places to eat. Closed Sundays and holidays.
  • The port lodges of Gaia. Cross the Dom Luís I bridge from Porto and taste in the cellars where port is aged.
  • Santos Populares in June. Lisbon's Santo António (12-13 June) and Porto's São João (23-24 June): street grills, sardines on bread and caldo verde until dawn.
  • A quinta in the Douro. Stay or eat at a wine estate on the terraces. Harvest runs through September.
  • Mealhada at lunch. Drive the N1 through Mealhada and pick a leitão house; they cluster along the road.

Other people worth reading

Nobody paid to be on this page and we earn nothing from these links. We pick, we check, and we date it.

Common questions

What is the national dish of Portugal?

Bacalhau, salt cod, in one of its hundreds of forms, is the usual answer. Cozido à portuguesa and caldo verde are the other two most people name, and the pastel de nata is the national pastry.

What should I eat in Porto?

A francesinha, a sandes de pernil, bifanas in their spicy sauce, tripas à moda do Porto if you are brave, and port across the river in Gaia.

Is eating out expensive in Portugal?

Not in the tascas: a prato do dia with soup, a main and a drink is still often €10-15. Bib Gourmand restaurants are capped at around €45 for a meal; the starred ones are tasting-menu prices.

Do you tip in Portuguese restaurants?

It is appreciated, not expected. Rounding up or leaving 5-10% for good service is normal; nothing is added to the bill for you.

When is the best time for sardines?

June to September, when they are fattest. June's Santos Populares festivals are the high point.